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Repsol Robert
November 8th, 2007, 12:59 PM
Okay gents...

You asked for pics, you got 'em... you asked for pics on the bike, you got 'em, you asked for a sound clip, here it is... Thanks to Cory....

This was done much like the other clips on Speedy's site... 6 feet away parallel to the bike.

I will also get a sound clip during the dyno run in a few weeks... and some fly bys when I get a camera operator...

Make sure you are listening to this on good quality PC speakers, good headphones (pressed against your ears to hear the bass), your iPod/MP3 player or on your home/car stereo.

http://www.fargosportbikes.com/images2/TaylorMade%20Slip-On%20Sound%20Clip.mp3

...but you haven't asked how to install it yet, but you're going to get it anyway...

Step 1... Remove current pipe... refer to your shop manual for the stock pipe... and remove the valve cables from the rear exhaust valve and tie them back out of the way... or reverse install non-stock pipes per the instructions that you probably lost in the garage somewhere...okay, let's get serious now...

Step 2... Remove the seat and tail fairing...
Step 3... Remove the right side passenger peg and rearset (let it hang)...
Step 4... Remove the stock plastic or MrGrn carbon heat shield...
Step 5... Remove the long stock aluminum or MrGrn long carbon heat shield...
Step 5... Remove the passenger seat/seat cowl rear holder to give a little more room to work underneath the plastic pan (allows you to lift the rear a bit)...

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Step 6... Remove the bolt and nut from the rear subframe...

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Step 7... Leave the stock short pipe that comes up from the collector on the bike and slide the two small clamps down onto the tube in the orientation I show here... with the adjusting nut toward the rear and the two welded mounting nuts/screws facing out...but don't tighten them yet! Don't forget this step now or you'll have to take everything apart when you want to mount the new carbon heat shield.

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Step 8... Now slide the mid-pipe onto the short pipe making sure it is fully seated, and check the orientation to match the second photo below from behind...

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Step 9... Now install the main hangers with the long nut/bolt/spacers, noting the offset on the hangers must be toward the center of the bike. The order of assembly from the right to left is... bolt, washer, hanger, spacer, subframe, spacer, hanger, washer, locknut... leaving everything loose for now...

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Step 10... Note that the cans are marked left and right, and the mounting clamps are already oriented as they should be once installed, with the nut at the center and facing down... loosen the clamp and slide the left can on first through the hanger from the rear making sure it is fully on the new mid-pipe and rotated to your desired orientation...using the rivets as a guide, but don't tighten anything yet. You should have the carbon fender eliminator in the hanger before sliding the pipe through... I didn't mount it for this temporary install...

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Step 11... Slide the second can through the rear of the right hanger, probably the most difficult part of the install (loosen the clamp)...be patient and push on the left side of the hanger mounting nut to expand the right hanger opening as you feed the can through... the rubber protective strip may try to catch on the hanger... but it will go... and of course make sure the fender eliminator is seated properly as well...

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Step 12... You're almost there!!! Now you can tighten only the main bolt with a 13MM pair of socket wrenches where the hangers attach to the subframe (above), but make sure once more that you are happy with the rotational orientation of the cans... and it should look like this...but don't tighten the can clamps yet...

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Step 13... Re-mount the seat/cowl catch, then the tail fairing/seats back onto the bike and tighten all 3 of the clamps holding the cans to the mid-pipe and the mid-pipe to the shorty pipe... but don't tighten the hose clamps on the shorty pipe yet... it's starting to take shape...

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Step 14... Remove the screws and washers from the two welded nuts on the hose clamps (already on the shorty pipe) that will mount the new carbon fiber heat shield. This is a little tricky, especially if you have fat fumble fingers, but position the two clamps so that the welded nuts face directly out at approximately the height you will mount the carbon shield...using the holes on the shield for positioning and gently tighten the clamps leaving just enough play to make adjustments as you mount the heat shield. The washers will go between the heat shield and the welded nut, so starting with the bottom hole, hold the washers behind it as you run the screw through and get it into the nut... I dropped the washers a couple of times, but a little patience will pay off here. Once you get the bottom one in, do the same to the top...adjusting the clamp as necessary. Once you've got both screws in and tight, slide and twist the heat shield until you are happy with the position... I've got it cranked toward the front to show you the assembly in this pic... and tighten the clamps...

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Step 15... Re-attach the rearset, the passenger peg if you use it...step back and admire your work... you've done it!!!

Congratulations on the successful install of your new Taylormade Dual Slip-on CCT exhaust...!!!

That's Hot!!! No, that's Cool Ceramic Technology...

Repsol Robert
November 8th, 2007, 12:59 PM
Before re-installing tail...SWEET!!!

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With tail installed...SWEETER!!!

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Slash cut it baby...!!!

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From above...

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From below...greasy fingers left smudge...highlighted by flash...invisible otherwise...

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And finally...the carbon fiber heat shield...remove large aluminum shield...

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From the rear...driver view behind you...my favorite view...

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A little closer...looking straight down the cans...

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Full side view...

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Right quarter view...

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I can tell you that it sounds amazingly like my Scorpion...also a short pipe with a very deep throaty sound at idle...and screams at high RPMs... this one is slightly louder than my Scorpion...

rsxscrazy
November 9th, 2007, 07:55 AM
looks bad ass thanks for the write up some one will get alot of use out of it...

MeanMachine
November 9th, 2007, 09:32 AM
RR, sound clips are one thing, but being there first hand is the best of course. What is your personal opinion of the sound with streetriding in mind? What do you think of it? How does it compare to others you have heard?

Thanks..

Repsol Robert
November 9th, 2007, 10:53 AM
RR, sound clips are one thing, but being there first hand is the best of course. What is your personal opinion of the sound with streetriding in mind? What do you think of it? How does it compare to others you have heard?

Thanks..

The Taylormade is a glass pack, has a nice rumble at idle, gets a bit raspy in the 3-4K range, especially off throttle...nice spits and burbles...but when you come on the pipe it absolutely screams....8K+.

The pipe is loud by street standards, but it doesn't create a problem with normal riding with low to mid RPMs. I happen to be a loud rider...like to keep the RPMs up so I've always got the power ready.

When compared to my Scorpion, it has a lower bass note, maintains a lower note through the entire range, but still screams pretty good above 8K. It's got stainless steel packing, which will not break down so the pipe will remain consistent through its life, while the Taylormade will get louder as the fiberglass breaks down.

People love the sound of my Taylormade...and the look...I loved my Scorpion too and they make similar power which is why I can use the same map for both pipes.

I would buy the Taylormade over any other pipe out there...I have yet to see another one during my street or track riding...definitley more exclusive than so many other pipes out there.

The key to my choosing a slip-on over a full system was the mid-range power delivery. A full system improves peak HP and makes the throttle management more difficult, while a slip-on will improve the entire mid-range and peak...giving you a more streetable solution with a smooth powerband.

RR

MeanMachine
November 9th, 2007, 11:00 AM
Thanks RR!

I have a full Micron System (headers all the way back), but the pipe is OK looking. I love the look of the Tailor Made and I also like the look of the Arata trapezoid and was thinking of a can change.

Repsol Robert
November 9th, 2007, 12:24 PM
Thanks RR!

I have a full Micron System (headers all the way back), but the pipe is OK looking. I love the look of the Tailor Made and I also like the look of the Arata trapezoid and was thinking of a can change.

With a full system, isn't your can tuned to the rest of the system? I don't know if you will get any HP benefit, and in fact may get less HP switching out just the can on your full system.

Also, fit will be an issue...mid-pipe diameter, shape, length etc, unless you plan to build a custom mid-pipe.

I get 157.5 RWHP compared to 148+ stock, but I don't have a clue how your headers will perform with a new can...