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Radical Rich
January 21st, 2009, 03:17 PM
Im replacing my stock brake lines and also ordered the clutch. Do most of you do the clutch line also or just the brake lines. the routing of the clutch line looks like a beaaatch. Any is it as bad as it looks to pull the old one and run the new one. Do you use the same clamps etc. the brake lines are easy for the most part. I have the plastic off and it is really tight in there. Thanks for any help

hondahoon
January 21st, 2009, 04:07 PM
Im replacing my stock brake lines and also ordered the clutch. Do most of you do the clutch line also or just the brake lines. the routing of the clutch line looks like a beaaatch. Any is it as bad as it looks to pull the old one and run the new one. Do you use the same clamps etc. the brake lines are easy for the most part. I have the plastic off and it is really tight in there. Thanks for any help

yup.. i always do clutch lines too & rear brake..
make sure you replace all the crush washers nothing worse that having to redo the job for the sake of a 20c washer...
also.. make sure you put high quality race brake & clutch fluids in .. it means you will get the most of of the new lines

HH

GothMog
January 21st, 2009, 04:52 PM
Im replacing my stock brake lines and also ordered the clutch. Do most of you do the clutch line also or just the brake lines. the routing of the clutch line looks like a beaaatch. Any is it as bad as it looks to pull the old one and run the new one. Do you use the same clamps etc. the brake lines are easy for the most part. I have the plastic off and it is really tight in there. Thanks for any help

Im watching with anticipation on how this goes....I did my brake lines and have held of on the clutch because of what you said "the routing of the clutch line looks like a beaaatch".

One suggestion I would throw at ya since you are replacing all those lines....install Speedbleeders.
I wish I would have done that when I did the front brakes....I did the rear.

Radical Rich
January 21st, 2009, 05:20 PM
Yep, and the lines came with all new crush washers even extra, I called them cause of the # of washers, he said they always include extra because we all drop stuff and try to find em when your in the middle of the job. Im still waiting for info on pulling the old clutch line and running the new one. It looks like I can maybe just sorta force it through without hurting anything. You shouldn't have to take half the dam left side to do it. We shall see. Im this far so no gooing back. glad it's in the den with fireplace tv etc.

GothMog
January 21st, 2009, 05:27 PM
So, you installing Speedbleeders also?

Radical Rich
January 21st, 2009, 05:55 PM
I have not yet. Thinking about it. How much difference is it really. I have heard no big deal to, You have to have them. Dont know what to do. If its just a little more time no big deal. Cant be much to install?

ZZGIXXER
January 21st, 2009, 06:30 PM
Im watching with anticipation on how this goes....I did my brake lines and have held of on the clutch because of what you said "the routing of the clutch line looks like a beaaatch".

One suggestion I would throw at ya since you are replacing all those lines....install Speedbleeders.
I wish I would have done that when I did the front brakes....I did the rear.



i have not done my brakes nor my clutch....i still like the stock ones....perhaps in the near few months will be getting new brake lines and clutch lines.

yo !!! anthony....if you need help.....let me know....i can help.:D

Radical Rich
January 21st, 2009, 07:06 PM
The title is clutch line help. I know everyone has brake lines. I want to know how you pulled your clutch line out and put the new one in. I have read tie the new one to the old one but it still looks way tight. On an 07 replace the clutch line. Anyone? Bueller ? Bueller? Anyone, Bueller? I heard he replaced his brake lines and split. Farriss wtf?

JohnnyComeLately
January 22nd, 2009, 11:32 AM
I'm interested in tips too on how to pull it. I haven't done it yet but it's only because I forget to order it when I'm doing something else (e.g. getting new tires, oil, etc).

Good thread and glad you started it. OK, no more postwhoring....reply if you've actually done the mod ya bishes!! No "Cut and Paste" mechanic tips from a HRC manual :D :D :evilgrin:

Radical Rich
January 22nd, 2009, 07:35 PM
I took off the side fairing,mid. You could take up the tank but I went caveman. I cut the clutch line in 2 or 3 places to get it out. Its a fitted steel line with some rubber hose coating. I think there were 2 clamps no big deal. So I decided Im not using it again so I cut it once up top and one close were it goes into the fairings. The new ones are totally flexible so no prob running it at all. If you get into it I would consider cutting the dam line as much as you want. You are using any of the old stuff anyway. Come to think of it There is no advantage to lifting the tank once you see where the line is run. Now it may be different on those old (05):evilgrin: But the way I saw it stock wow what a tight pain in the fredi. Look at it close with light were it runs and you will see. Well buch of bleeding the stuff and go!!!!!!!!!!!!

heatha1488
January 24th, 2009, 01:44 PM
Good. You should take the fairing off. Just gives you more space to work in. No point in taking short cuts, you'll eventually end up taking the fairing off anyways! I don't recall the routing of the clutch line being a pain? Although lifting the tank is also a good idea, more space for when it goes in the frame by the motor. Easy job. And remember to bleed your master cylinder first, then go to your slave cylinder, then repeat!:D Also its handy to have water close at hand should you mess brake fluid on anything, water will neutralise the damage brake fluid causes.

Radical Rich
January 24th, 2009, 02:52 PM
The routing was easy using the flexible ss lines, I still didn't see and advantage to lifting the tank. The actual tank not the Orange thing. Especially that one hose that is to short and is almost blind to put back on. My opinion is more work than it's worth lifting the tank. Like i said 05 may be a bit different. Anyway all bled and all the levers are all very firm and no leaks. It's a good idea after a little riding to check all the banjo bolts because the crush washers are the sealing point to keep pressure in the lines. They seemed to crank a smig after the first couple rides. I didn't have a torque wrench nor do I no the specs.

Radical Rich
January 24th, 2009, 02:54 PM
The routing was easy using the flexible ss lines, I still didn't see and advantage to lifting the tank. The actual tank not the Orange thing. Especially that one hose that is to short that comes off when you pull up the tank, and is almost blind to put back on. My opinion is more work than it's worth lifting the tank. Like i said 05 may be a bit different. Anyway all bled and all the levers are all very firm and no leaks. It's a good idea after a little riding to check all the banjo bolts because the crush washers are the sealing point to keep pressure in the lines. They seemed to crank a smig after the first couple rides. I didn't have a torque wrench nor do I no the specs.

heatha1488
January 24th, 2009, 03:09 PM
Common sense works well, when you don't have a torque wrench handy! Glad all is well! Guess I climbed into this thread a little late!:weirdface: Since you all done already:p

JohnnyComeLately
January 24th, 2009, 06:18 PM
What?? you mean we can do braided lines without a torque wrench accurate to .01% (which would be within ~.001 foot pounds in this case) ????

Just a joke from an old 1000.assclowns thread. Good to hear it's not that bad.