Need to replace chain, which brand to go with?

[Flossingsxr]

I need to replace my chain, I don't want to change the gearing, so which brand is good to go with? Any benefits of going aftermarket? Downsides? Thanks

[Thrasher]

IMHO

http://www.didchain.com/

[paul13131313]

Manual specifies RK or DID. My 2009 came with RK and at 20,000 miles I replaced it with DID and stock sprockets. I replaced it with the same again before bike was totaled with 55,000 miles. Chain lubed every 500 miles with Honda Moly spray chain lube.

[Repsol Dave]

I've always used DID's but I've also never heard anything bad about RK's

[TigreST]

Been using D.I.D. for a very long time with great results. 530ZVM-X Gold. Sprocket choice has been OEM on the front and for the past few years I've been test driving a SuperSprox composite unit in the rear. This is on my Super Blackbird. Having a Scott Oiler automatic chain oiler has helped extend the chain life. I've got a Scott Oiler for the Repsol, but have not decide where to install it too as yet.

T.

[Flossingsxr]

Thanks guys, I have a few questions that I've come across looking at chain kits, some have the option of aluminum rear sprockets? 3d chains. And is a chain kit all I need if I plan on having a shop install it with the parts I buy and bring? Thanks

[TigreST]

I have only one experiance with alum. rear sprockets and it was not all that good. If chain alignement is not 100% there is (I believe) increased wear and tear on the alum unit as they are of course softer then the steel parts. On my 1982 CB750 I have no choice but to run alum. due to te wheels I installed. It was on this machine that the sprocket wear was very bad. Granted it was my fault for not checking on it. My Blackbirds Dymag rear wheel came with a Talon alum unit. I put that one in the spars department and install the Super Sprox piece. OEM or similiar spec (IMHO) is the way to go. Most if not all of the OEM CS (front) sprockets are rubber compensated units which help with driveline shock and quiet running.

I belive you will only need to source a chain, CS sprocket, and rear drive sprocket, plus a master link (most/all chains include a master link these days). I do not think that the "Quick Clip" master links are recommended for the big bore sport machines. A rivit link is the way to go ,albeit, it can be interesting to install if one is not up to speed with the task. Critical is the amount of crush force applied. Just enough to capture the pin, but not so much as to reduce the side clearance between "O" rings and side plates. Correct tools are required to do this job right and correctly.

Chain types: "O"-ring or "X"-ring tend to command higher prices but do provide for captured lube between the links, and quiter operation. Standard link chains may require more attention to get best mileage out of them, but then there is the cost savings. The D.I.D ZVM-X I like to run is an "X"-ring type.

T.

[TigreST]

One other thing. I think your doing a complete set change out right? Sprockets and chain? That is the correct way to go. It is best to change the drive chain and sprockets as a set if at all possible. This keeps the rate of wear (in a sense) the same for all the parts. To install a new chain, or new sprocket, to a old sprocket set or old chain is reputed to only increase the wear rate on the new parts. It seems like sound thinking. I change them out as a complete set.

T.

[Repsol Dave]

No catchy signature Tony?


Ok, but really, Tony pretty much covered everything you need to know. IMO, it's definitely worth the extra money for a high quality O or X ring chain. And I agree stay away from the aluminum rear sprockets.

[TigreST]

If your one to want to play with gear ratio changes while your at the sprocket replacement task, you can check out the following link to get a rough idea about speed versus rpm with the new/different ratios.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/


Simply fill in the make model and year of the machine (most of them are pre-loaded in the data base) and then plug in your selected gear ratio and bingo it spits our speed and rpm info. and other interesting stuff.

They also do a calculation of wear versus sprocket diameter which is interesting .


FWiW,

Tony "I'm not pulling your chain" Bagley (for Repsol Dave)

[Repsol Dave]

If your one to want to play with gear ratio changes while your at the sprocket replacement task, you can check out the following link to get a rough idea about speed versus rpm with the new/different ratios.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/


Simply fill in the make model and year of the machine (most of them are pre-loaded in the data base) and then plug in your selected gear ratio and bingo it spits our speed and rpm info. and other interesting stuff.

They also do a calculation of wear versus sprocket diameter which is interesting .


FWiW,

Tony "I'm not pulling your chain" Bagley (for Repsol Dave)

[Flossingsxr]

I ended up going with a driven Evo spec superlight steel chain kit with EST tech, stock gearing with a EK MVXZ Orange chain, paid $180 shipped, thanks all for the replies, suggestions and advice.

https://www.motomummy.com/chain-kits...st-technology/